I do not think they make bridge units of the type i linked to in such a high current rating.ĥ seconds on. There is also a half wave rectified system but I cannot see this as possible with the original plate arrangement either. The bridge setup is shown in Fig.2 but looking at your diode plate arrangement I doubt it is done this way. In the Fig.1 below is how I think your setup is connected. Where was the negative output lead connected.? Normally one would expect to see a centre tap on the secondary with the diode plate you have there but I cannot see any. Just what size would need to be determined possibly from the part numbers on the old diodes.Ī second look at the diode plate is a bit perplexing. The latter might be difficult to find though. You will need a very hefty (100A or more) rectifier bridge using stud diodes as I originally stated.(or the clamped units as are there now) I have a feeling you are not telling the whole story like "hooked up backwards" by any chance.? mm) and connectors and a screw and nut to mount the bridge unit would cover it.Īre you certain it is faulty diode and not the selector switch.? In these, the transformer out go to the ac terminals ( diagonally opposite each other) and the output goes to the positive and negative leads as marked, again on diagonally opposite terminals.Ī small amount of modification is required to terminate on the rectifier from your existing wiring but a few spade terminals and some short lengths of flex cable (2.5sq. If the unit has an output below a certain level, the rectifier unit can be replaced with a solid state one piece unit such as shown in the link below. It is possible to replace the diodes with stud type but this might be beyond your ability. Good idea to replace the crappy clamps that started all this in the first place as well. Just a note for future.always disconnect from the power when placing or removing charge clamps and always check polarity. What would you replace the diodes or whole rectifier with?Ĭan you look on the charger and get a photo of the specifications of the charger, primarily the output charge current ability.Īs you say, the transformer is likely to be ok as they are fairly robust pieces of gear. How come only the negative lead goes through the rectifier? What are the ratings/specifications to take into consideration when choosing a replacement? And I have never seen this type of diode before, they are short black circles. Unfortunately they really do not want you to change the diodes, everything is riveted and weld together, you can't even remove the diodes without brutalizing the rectifier. So I think all this charger would need to work again is 2 new diodes. The transformer is very rusty and noisy but appears to be working. The right side is also the one that is damaged as you'll see in the picture I'll post. The ones on the left appear to be working while the ones on the right are shorted. The rectifier is a big plate with 4 diodes. When he attached it back to the pole the charger smoked and stopped working. He says he was charging a car, and when he came back one of the clip was on the ground.
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